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Whenever assembling a list of London’s best restaurants, one might foresee well-known Michelin-starred venues. Yet, situated high among these food titans is a unpretentious salonu situated in a far-flung part of north London.

A Surprise Accolade

The small Turkish spot, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the 4th best restaurant in the capital by a influential culinary publication. This honour has left the family utterly astonished.

“I’m utterly shocked,” remarks a proprietor, referring to his parents’ relentless work that culminated in their humble place securing such a lofty spot on a respected 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

The small shop, which was a basic cafe before its conversion into a sought-after destination, has maintained much of its former feel. It accommodates just over 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking display, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate space,” comments the owner.

A Namesake Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it’s focused on the food, and this eatery definitely succeeds. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a tender quality.

The meat is then tossed into a large pan with spices and oil, which are added in bit by bit. As the meaty mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to absorb all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is wrapped tightly inside.

It is often consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a mighty burst of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A respected food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is soaked in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a deeper, more aromatic and not overly sweet flavour.

Surpassing the Giants

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant full for under £25, comparable experiences at top-tier establishments can start at many times that figure.

The Ethos of Warmth

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I don’t believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is echoed by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he was in a position of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London visit this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the traps of overcomplication, and to show what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Journey of Dedication

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not work at elite establishments. “I am really happy of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum was very tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a social life but her friends would come here to help her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

An Achievement for the Culture

This restaurant’s accolade is likely to resonate beyond its own walls. “I believe numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the broader importance of this culinary achievement.